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Dec 29 2008

Recycling Christmas Trees

Recycling Christmas Trees

29 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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If you purchased a living tree to decorate your home for the holidays you probably have some place in mind to plant it. Living trees are usually purchased as "balled and burlapped" indicating that roots are left intact and bundled in burlap or other cloth-type material. Following use as Christmas trees, they are planted into the landscape and can be a rewarding way to recycle your tree.

Christmas tree chipping operation.Christmas tree chipping operation.

Unfortunately, trees replanted after holiday use often do not survive or grow well. Most problems can be traced to one of three major factors. First, a tree species is selected that is not adapted to the environment it will be planted. Second, too large a tree is purchased which then suffers a great degree of transplant shock. Third, prior to replanting, trees become too dry due to inadequate moisture around the roots.

Trees that do well in central Virginia are white pine, Scotch pine, Virginia pine, and Norway spruce. Trees to be replanted should not be larger than five to six feet in height to provide for a sufficient root ball and to facilitate handling.

Before planting, the tree can be conditioned by placing it outside in a moderately cool area for a week or so. Since the root balls are often heavy and cumbersome, it is important that they are not mistreated or dropped. Balled and burlapped trees should not be carried by their stems, because the weight of the root ball can exert pressure on the roots and break them. It is best to pick the tree up by the ball itself or to roll the ball along the ground. If the ground is frozen or if the tree cannot be planted immediately, it should be placed in a sheltered area and the root ball heavily mulched.

To plant, an area four to five times the size of the root ball should be tilled to a depth of 6 inches. A planting hole the same diameter and slightly shallower than the root ball is recommended. Natural burlap can be left around the roots if it is too difficult to remove, but treated burlap or nylon should be removed. After planting, two to three inches of mulch over the disturbed area is beneficial. The tree should be watered after planting, but fertilizer application is best done in the spring after the tree has started to grow.

The above procedures are considered the minimum required to establish a living Christmas tree into the landscape. Other cultural practices are necessary if the planted tree is to thrive in its new environment. These practices include soil management (mulching, irrigation, fertilization, etc.), insect and disease identification, evaluation and control, and periodic shaping to maintain the "Christmas tree" look. A significant amount of dedication is required by the homeowner if a living Christmas tree is to be established and grown. However, individuals who are successful can point with pride at their efforts, which will always remind them of a past holiday season.

For those who chose to purchase cut trees, the family tree after Christmas represents a source of organic waste. Most consumers simply put the tree out with the rest of the household garbage to be carted off to a landfill. Depending upon your situation, however, there may be other alternatives to disposing of your tree. The tree could be placed in the backyard, adorned with bits of bread and suet, and used as a bird feeder. In the spring, the tree could be chipped for mulch or burned for fuel. Farmers with ponds have found that a couple of Christmas trees, properly weighted down, provide good habitat for fish. Some communities even provide special chipper services for Christmas trees, with the chips either sold or used for landscaping purposes in city flowerbeds, parks, etc.

In Albemarle County a Christmas Tree Recycling Program will be available from December 26 to January 16. The Christmas Tree Recycling Program collects discarded Christmas trees which are chipped into mulch and then offered to the public at no cost. This program has been in operation since 1988 and recycles over 3000 trees each year; which in turn yields over 144 cubic yards of mulch. Not only does this recycling program provide citizens a place to dispose of a potentially large and cumbersome item, it also reduces the impact on our landfill.

By combining forces with the Charlottesville Curb Side Pick-Up Program, the two programs collected over 5600 trees last year, yielding approximately 268 cubic yards of mulch. According to the City Public Works Department, their curbside pick up will be the week of January 12th, 2009. Trees must be at the curbside by 7am. Shortly after the City curbside pick up, the County and City Parks & Recreation crews will team up to chip the estimated 2600 trees at Darden Towe Park.

As a reminder, this program is for Christmas trees only, please no yard waste. Both the County & City programs require that all decorations, stands and nails be removed from the Christmas trees.

Free mulch will be available to citizen by February 2, 2009, at Darden Towe Park.

The County will operate seven sites daily, 7am till dark. The sites are as follows:

  • Chris Greene Lake in Earlysville
  • Crozet Park
  • Darden Towe Park
  • Greenwood Community Center
  • *Rivanna Solid Waste Authority Recycling Center on McIntire Road (*note: Sunday hours are 12noon 5pm)
  • Scottsville Community Center
  • Walnut Creek Park

* The RSWARC on McIntire Rd. may be congested, please consider Darden Towe Park as an alternate location that has easy access and is suited better for large loads and contract haulers.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Written by admin · Categorized: VCE Articles

Dec 22 2008

Gifts for the Landscape

Gifts for the Landscape

22 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Having trouble thinking of nice gifts for those around you? In tough times I try to think of what is really needed rather the nice to have stuff. For example, one of my trees really needed some pruning so it could be a safe place to park my car underneath. That was easy to decide because I do not want to get beaned by some dead but still hanging limb when a strong breeze blows through. There are lots of things like this you can do for your closest living friends and relatives. So here are some things you can get for your landscape for the holidays. They are important for everyone and they keep on giving long after the season has passed. No wrapping required.

Taking a soil sample.Taking a soil sample.
In general:
  • Test the soil to learn the pH and nutrients already present
  • Use compost to improve soil structure and fertility in lawns and gardens
  • Maintain healthy plants by meeting their cultural requirements with the goal of using less pesticides
  • Avoid planting invasive species; instead choose plants, especially native plants that minimize maintenance and increase habitat.
  • Group plants with similar needs (water, fertilizer, sun) for easier maintenance
  • Use plants or mulch to conserve water, suppress weeds and prevent soil erosion
  • Recycle/Reuse yard waste on site
  • Fertilize based on a soil test and at the appropriate time of year
  • Identify plant problem and severity of damage before choosing a control
  • Read and follow all directions on pesticide labels
  • Determine soil drainage capacity before planting
  • In times of low precipitation irrigate landscape plants deeply and infrequently, at a rate of 1" per week
Trees/shrubs:
  • When adding trees/shrubs to the landscape, select trees and shrubs that will grow in the conditions (soil pH, sun or shade, etc.) of the landscape
  • Plant trees/shrubs in holes that are 3-5 times the width of the root ball, and slightly less the height
  • Mulch only 2-3 inches high, and 4-6 inches away from the trunk of the tree/shrub
  • Select trees/shrubs whose mature sizes will fit the scale and size of the landscape
  • Use no soil amendments in individual planting holes of new plantings
Turf:
  • Maintain desirable pH (6.2-6.5) for turf grass through regular soil testing
  • Eliminate turf in shady areas where it is difficult to grow
  • Measure your turfs square footage dont guess!
  • Re-test your soil every 3-5 years
  • Follow the 1/3 mowing rule --Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at any mowing event
  • Sharpen mower blades about every 10 hours of use or every 10 to 20 mowings. Wet grass tends to dull blades. Mowing with a dull blade also contributes to lawn diseases.
  • Avoid mowing under drought conditions or when the leaf blades are wet.
  • Return grass clippings back to the lawn-- it counts for up to 30% of a lawns nitrogen requirements for the year.
  • Core-aerate the lawn in late August-early September or mid March-mid April.
  • Choose a fertilizer with more than 50% Water Insoluble Nitrogen (slow release) formulation rather than a quick release formulation to prevent fertilizer runoff.
  • Fertilize based on soil test
  • Cool season grasses-Fertilize no more than 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet TOTAL in the Fall; applying no more than 1 pound of Nitrogen every 30 days. Optimal time is September through November. Fertilize no more than 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet TOTAL in the spring. Optimal time is May 15-June 15.
  • Warm season grasses-Optimal time for fertilizing is June, July and August. Fertilize no more than 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per application. With no more than 3 lbs of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet TOTAL for the season
  • Apply lime based on a soil test.
Compost
  • Top-dress existing lawn with of compost to improve the soil structure of clay soils. A simple formula to calculate how much compost is needed is :
    Area to cover (square feet) X depth of compost (inches) X 0.0031= compost needed (cubic yards)
  • In late spring, add about 1 inch of compost around the trees and shrubs. Cover with a mulch of shredded pine needles, straw, bark chips, or leaves 2 to 3 inches deep.
  • In the fall, spread about 2 inches of compost over your entire garden and work it 6 to 8 inches into the soil

For more information about landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Written by admin · Categorized: VCE Articles

Dec 15 2008

Care for Christmas Trees

Care for Christmas Trees

15 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

By now many people have purchased their Christmas trees. Once you have returned home with your Christmas tree, its continued freshness depends upon the type of care you provide.

A photo of a Christmas tree.A photo of a Christmas tree.

The tree should have a fresh cut across the bottom, about one-inch above the old base. This removes any clogged wood that may not readily absorb water. Next, the tree should be placed in a stand with a large reservoir of water and located in the room. Depending upon the size, species, and location of the tree, it may absorb a gallon of water in the first day, so it should be checked frequently and re-watered as necessary. Although some people advocate placing various substances in the water to preserve freshness, we recommend that consumers simply keep the tree well watered with pure tap water. As long as the tree is able to absorb and transpire water, it is reasonably fire-resistant.

It is important that the tree always be kept watered and not allowed to dry out. If the tree does become dried out, it may not be able to adequately absorb moisture once it is re-watered, and it will shed its needles prematurely. Taking the tree down and cutting about a 1-inch slice off the bottom of the trunk, then replacing the tree in the stand and re-watering, will remedy this problem. Although inconvenient, it is the only way to prevent early needle loss. Overall, a good rule of thumb is to treat a green Christmas tree just like a fresh bouquet of cut flowers.

The Christmas tree should be located in a safe place, preferably near a wall or corner where it is not likely to be knocked over. Keeping the tree away from heat sources such as hot air ducts, wood stoves, fireplaces, etc., will help to preserve freshness and lessen fire danger. Similarly, light cords and connections used in decorating the tree should be in good working condition. Lights should always be turned off at bedtime or when leaving for an extended period of time.

After Christmas, the family tree represents a source of organic waste. Most consumers simply put the tree out with the rest of the household garbage to be carted off to a landfill. Depending upon your situation, however, there may be other alternatives to disposing of your tree. The tree could be placed in the backyard, adorned with bits of bread and suet, and used as a bird feeder. In the spring, the tree could be chipped for mulch or burned for fuel. Farmers with ponds have found that a couple of Christmas trees, properly weighted down, provide good habitat for fish. Some communities even provide special chipper services for Christmas trees, with the chips either sold or used for landscaping purposes in city flowerbeds, parks, etc.

Living Christmas trees are unique and should definitely receive special care. Since the root balls are often heavy and cumbersome, it is important that they are not mistreated or dropped. Balled and burlapped trees should not be carried by their stems, because the weight of the root ball can exert pressure on the roots and break them. It is best to pick the tree up by the ball itself or to roll the ball along the ground.

Once the tree is home, it should be conditioned before being brought into a heated room. Leaving the tree upright in an unheated barn or garage for a couple of days should be sufficient. After the conditioning, the tree can be brought indoors and placed in a cool location away from direct sunlight. It is even more important with living trees that the location is away from heat sources such as wood stoves, fireplaces, heater vents, etc.

Living Christmas trees will also need water, although not nearly as much as cut trees. Prior to moving the tree inside, the root ball should be moistened and kept in a moist condition while the tree is displayed.

Living Christmas trees are fairly sensitive and should not be kept inside for more than 10 days. Exposure to the warm temperatures may cause the dormant tree to break buds and start to grow, and this is undesirable. Before removing the tree directly outside, it should be allowed to recondition in the same manner as when it was brought inside. After a couple of days, it should be ready to plant outside.

If the ground is frozen or if the tree cannot be planted immediately, it should be placed in a sheltered area and the root ball heavily mulched. When planting, the hole should be dug about the depth of the root ball and 1.5 to 2 times the diameter. In heavy clay soil, the hole can even be dug 1 or 2 inches shallower than the root ball. The tree should be placed in the hole, backfilled with the soil removed from the hole, watered, and mulched. The tree will remain dormant for the rest of the winter and then will start to grow normally with other vegetation in the spring.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Written by admin · Categorized: VCE Articles

Dec 08 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension Volunteers

Virginia Cooperative Extension Volunteers

8 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Some of the greatest resources I have as an Extension Agent are the volunteers we call Master Gardeners, Master Naturalists, and Tree Stewards. These folks bring years of experience in gardening, natural history, tree biology, and other disciplines to bear on the many projects we undertake at Virginia Cooperative Extension. Some of them came to us with little or no training and some brought a large amount of expertise. All of them have been through our training programs and some have gone on to help teach them later. The most rewarding part for me is their spirit of giving and helping others learn how to solve their own problems. We could not do all the work we do and reach all the people we do without the good work of our volunteers.

A photo of Master Naturalist Volunteers Mary Lee Epps and Marjie Giuliano.A photo of Master Naturalist Volunteers Mary Lee Epps and Marjie Giuliano.
Who are the Master Gardeners, Master Naturalists, and Tree Stewards?

They are members of the local community who take an active interest in their surroundings and the quality of life affected by our landscapes, local parks and trails, water quality, and more. They are concerned with issues like sustainable landscape management, biodiversity, land use, and invasive plants. They are enthusiastic, willing to learn and to help others, and able to communicate with diverse groups of people.

What sets these volunteers apart from others in the community is their special training in the volunteer work that they do. In exchange for their training, persons who become volunteers contribute time working through their Cooperative Extension office to provide information and services to their communities.

Are these programs for you?

To help you decide if you should apply to be a Master Gardener, Master Naturalist or Tree Steward, ask yourself these questions:

  • Do I want to learn more about growing plants, Virginia natural history, or trees?
  • Am I eager to participate in a practical and intense training program?
  • Do I look forward to sharing my knowledge with people in my community?
  • Do I have enough time to attend training and to complete the volunteer service?

If you answered yes to these questions, the Master Gardener, Master Naturalist, or Tree Steward programs could be for you. Contact your local Extension Office to ask about these programs in your county. From there you can obtain an application or more information from the local Extension Agent at the office.

Training

If accepted into one of these volunteer programs in your county, you will attend a training course. Classes are taught by Virginia Cooperative Extension agents, specialists, and local experts.

These programs offer approximately 50 hours of instruction that cover a wide variety of topics. The trainings are offered at various times during the year at various locations across the state. Check with your County Extension office for specific locations, dates, and times.

Volunteer Commitment

In exchange for training, participants are required to volunteer time to their County Extension program. The requirements vary with the program but it is approximately 40 to 50 hours of volunteer service within one year following the training to earn the title of certified Master Gardener, Master Naturalist, or Tree Steward.

The type of service varies according to community needs and the abilities and interests of the volunteers. Some answer requests for information while others staff help desks or displays at farmers markets or community events. Some may speak to local groups and conduct workshops, lead interpretive hikes, or help monitor stream health. They may help establish community garden projects, work with 4-H youth, coordinate and teach tree planting workshops, or assist their agent with news or radio releases related to upcoming workshops or lectures.

Master Gardeners, Master Naturalists, and Tree Stewards are representatives of Virginia Cooperative Extension. In all volunteer work related to these programs, volunteers follow the research-based recommendations of Virginia Cooperative Extension and other state agencies.

Certification

Participants become certified Master Gardeners, Master Naturalists, and Tree Stewards after they have completed the training course and fulfilled their volunteer commitment.

For More Information

Application forms and additional information are available from your local county Extension office.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Written by admin · Categorized: VCE Articles

Dec 01 2008

Snow & Ice

Snow & Ice

1 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last week most of our area had some flurries and a bit of snow on the vehicle in the morning. Along with the obvious concern that insects are dying by the truckload you might be wondering about how to protect your plants from the forces of nature. Before addressing any protective or remedial action that a gardener might take, I think it only fair to come to the defense of snow for its positive contributions. Not only does it provide us with a beautiful backdrop to birds feeding on the deck, but when deep enough, it gives us a reason to stay home for the day. Snow also offers warmth and wind protection to overwintering spinach, pansies, and multitude of perennials that we had not yet mulched.

A snow scene.A snow scene.

Exposed areas with fluctuating temperatures are tough places for plants and often we see a lot of winter kill with this type of weather. Snow is an excellent insulator with thousands of tiny air pockets that hold the soil warmth around the plants it covers. A thick layer protects plants from the winds that dry and tear at leaves and buds. Snow is good for preventing erosion and stabilizing soil temperatures as well. Early and lasting snow that comes before a deep freeze will insulate the ground and keep the frost from penetrating deeper, reducing some of the freezing and thawing that forces perennials out of the ground.

The amount of snow is important as well as when we get it. Early season snows before temperatures get too cold will help roots survive. Snow can gradually replenish the subsoil moisture levels when it melts slow enough to seep in rather than run off as the winter rains too often do. But as with everything, there is a negative side to snow. It melts and makes a mess, it creates chaos when those other drivers from wherever do not perform up to par on snow-covered roads, and when it comes down long and hard enough, it breaks tree branches and splits shrubs. Once the snow or ice begins, there is relatively little that you can do. What you can do is prevent the damage from occurring by selecting plants that are least susceptible to snow or ice damage and locating plants where they are least likely to be hurt.

Shrubs, such as boxwood, yews, and arborvitae, have even greater problems if planted under the eaves of a house where snow can slide off the roof. If they are already planted there you can erect snow deflectors over shrubs under the drip line of houses and other buildings to protect them against avalanches falling off the roof. Along a sidewalk, Japanese hollies and azaleas are severely damaged by the added burden of snow and ice shoveled from the walk and dumped on them. De-icing salts then weaken the broken plant further. Knocking snow off (tap the branches gently) as it accumulates can help avoid breakage, but this requires repeated efforts throughout the storm. Few gardeners will take the 2 am shift. Ice cannot be easily removed and you often do more damage trying to remove ice. It is best to let the sun melt the ice. After the snow and ice have melted and the damage is repaired, it is time to plan for a landscape that is less likely to be damaged by forces you cannot control.

In addition, if snow cover is not very deep, the sun can penetrate it, warming the soil beneath and speed thawing from the bottom. Also, when snow gets dirty, the dirt absorbs heat from the sun and the snow melts from the top. This is why snow turns to slush so quickly in large cities. It is also why new snow melts so quickly when it falls on a layer of dirty snow.

A number of flood studies show that between 50 to 90 percent of a heavy snowfall may be intercepted by tree tops in a dense, coniferous forest - little reaches the ground. In deciduous forests most of the snow accumulates on the ground with little held by the trees. Therefore, the ground freezes hardest in a coniferous forest. Since it is difficult for the sun to warm the ground in such a dense forest, the ground tends to remain frozen quite late in spring. In a deciduous forest, the soil is covered with snow, keeping soil temperatures higher. Usually there is also a large accumulation of organic matter around the trees. Organic matter can absorb large quantities of moisture as snow melts, therefore runoff is decreased.

To a certain degree we can control the soil temperature on our own properties through the type, number and placement of trees. Properly placed windbreaks can shield the garden from blasts of wind as well as prevent snow from blowing off in areas where it is needed. In addition, piling organic mulch over the garden in winter acts in the same way as the forest organic debris described above. A deep layer of mulch (shredded leaves, pine needles, straw or hay) insulates the soil and holds snow very well.

Ice Storm Susceptibility of Tree Species Commonly Planted in Urban Areas:

    Susceptible

  • American elm
  • American linden
  • Black cherry
  • Black locust
  • Bradford pear
  • Common hackberry
  • Green ash
  • Honey locust
  • Pin oak
  • Siberian elm
  • Silver maple
    Intermediate Resistance

  • Bur oak
  • Eastern white pine
  • Northern red oak
  • Red maple
  • Sugar maple
  • Sycamore
  • Tuliptree
  • White ash
    Resistant

  • American sweetgum
  • Arborvitae
  • Black walnut
  • Blue beech
  • Catalpa
  • Eastern hemlock
  • Ginkgo
  • Ironwood
  • Kentucky coffee tree
  • Littleleaf linden
  • Norway maple
  • Silver linden
  • Swamp white oak
  • White oak

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Written by admin · Categorized: VCE Articles · Tagged: weather

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Fluvanna Master Gardeners

VCE Fluvanna Unit
P.O. Box 518
5725 James Madison Highway
Fork Union Va. 23055
Phone: 434.591.1950

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