Creating & Tending Backyard Woods

7 January 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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Do you have some backyard woods or a few acres you would like to be a natural area? While you may enjoy your woods for the privacy it offers or knowing that it gives a home to some wildlife, it can be much more. You can influence what happens in your natural area by better understanding what you have, what you want and available tools to help you accomplish your goals. For example, did you know that by selecting certain trees for firewood, you can improve wildlife habitat, improve the scenic value, and regenerate young trees, all at the same time?

A hawk in the woods.

The U.S. population has grown increasingly urban each decade, from 28 percent in 1910 to 80 percent in 2000. In the Chesapeake watershed alone, residential development is predicted to consume 800,000 acres between 2003 and 2030, nearly 90 percent of it replacing farmland. As urban communities grow larger and faster than ever before, natural resource management in these areas becomes crucial for achieving sustainable development and maintaining and enhancing the quality of life and the environment.

Ecological Services

Trees provide ecological services that include 1) reduced air pollution, 2) storm-water control, 3) carbon storage, 4) improved water quality, and 5) reduced energy consumption.

Trees reduce air pollution by trapping particulate matter in their leafy canopies and by absorbing noxious pollution into their leaves. The particulate matter is eventually washed away with rain. Absorbed pollutants are incorporated into the soil after leaf fall where they are broken down by microbes. These actions reduce human health problems related to air pollution. Tree canopies also intercept large amounts of rain, reducing the amount of runoff that is discharged into streams and rivers and extending the time that a watershed has to absorb rainfall. This reduces flooding and erosion. As trees grow they accumulate biomass that absorbs carbon and nutrients, locking them into a biological cycle that keeps them out of the atmosphere and hydrosphere. The storage of carbon reduces the greenhouse effect that is linked to problems of global climate change. Absorbed nutrients stay out of water bodies where they would otherwise harm fish and other aquatic species.

In summer, trees ameliorate climate by transpiring water from their leaves, which has a cooling effect on the atmosphere. At night, when the earth radiates heat back into space, temperatures often drop to the cooling or dew point, when water vapor, some of which is produced by trees during the daytime, condenses. This releases latent heat back into the atmosphere. When groups of trees intercept sunlight and use it for photosynthesis, they shade roads, buildings, and other structures, and they help reduce energy consumption.

Social Benefits

Benefits to society are harder to quantify, but that does not mean they are less important than the ecological services that trees provide. Societal benefits include increased job satisfaction, faster recovery time for hospital patients, and improved child development. For example, hospital patients who have a view of trees out of their window recovered more quickly than patients who did not. Similarly, employees who could look out their office windows and see trees and nature were happier at work. Both of these have dollar values, like lower health-care costs and increased worker productivity, but it is harder to assign an exact dollar amount to them. Properly placed and maintained trees have even been shown to reduce crime and enhance cognitive development in children.

Many outdoor recreation activities, such as picnicking, hiking, or even just sitting on a back porch are more enjoyable in and around trees. Trees provide homes and are an important component of habitat for many wildlife species. Observing wildlife in community nature parks is one of the fastest growing forms of outdoor recreation in the United States.

Aesthetic Value

The aesthetic value of landscape trees can be measured by determining how property values increase for yards that have trees in them. Property values can increase as much as 20 percent when trees are present on the land. The monetary value of an individual tree can be determined by an experienced appraiser. Tree appraisal considers a variety of factors such as the species, size, condition of the tree, and its location in a landscape. Such a monetary appraisal is often made when a court of law must determine how much money a homeowner is owed if someone vandalizes a tree on his or her property. Large trees can increase property value up to 20 percent. Taking care of such trees is critical to realizing their values.

Three workshops are being offered to equip owners of 1-10 acres to learn how to manage existing natural areas and or create new natural areas. The workshops will use the newly published manual, The Woods in Your Backyard: Learning to Create and Enhance Natural Areas Around Your Home. This full-color 139-page manual helps you to identify your goals for your land, and walks you through the steps to achieve them. Whether you are interested in converting lawn to forest, creating wildlife habitat, or providing a useful outdoor space for your family, this book is for you.

The workshops are being offered in several locations and in two formats, full-day or two half days, for your convenience. Please call the phone number associated with each location to register or seek more information.

*These workshops are 2 sessions, separated by a week for homework completion.

The workshops will take participants through the manual to demonstrate how to use it and provide ideas on how to share it with others. A Resource CD will also be available. Attendance is limited and pre-registration is required. To register, contact the respective Virginia Cooperative Extension office in the host county.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Spring Lawn Care

25 February 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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As the weather warms up, many homeowners will be anxious to get out and start working on their lawns. The sight of new grass growing often inspires folks to run out and spread fertilizer to help the young blades along. This is actually the opposite of recommended practices for fescue and bluegrass lawns. The proper time to fertilize these grasses is in the fall, when the roots that will sustain the plants through the following summer are actively growing. Even if the fall feeding was missed, any spring feeding should be limited to a light feeding (1/2 pound of actual nitrogen, i.e., 5 pounds of 10-10-10, per 1000 sq. ft.) after the initial flush of growth has subsided, probably sometime in May or early June.

Lime, on the other hand, could be applied in early spring, if soil tests show that it is necessary. Most lawn grasses grow best at a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0, so have your soil pH analyzed every two to three years to be sure you are staying in that range. The soil test results will include recommendations on how much lime to apply.

The best time to establish a new lawn from seed is in the fall, but many homeowners will want to re-seed patches of lawn that have been damaged during the winter. Seed sown during March and early April will have a chance to grow successfully if it is well watered and cared for, from seeding on through the heat of summer. Ideally you would water approximately once a week throughout the summer to provide enough water for the root system. Care includes fertilizer on newly seeded grass using a high phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 25 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1000 square feet when patch seeding) to foster root growth.

There are many varieties and types of grass seed from which to choose. Your local county Extension Agent can supply you with a publication that discusses the latest recommended varieties of turf grasses in Virginia.

When your lawn requires its first cutting, be sure not to cut too short. Mow to about two inches during the spring, and then raise the cutting height another half inch when summer arrives. Mow frequently so that no more than one third of the grass blade is removed at one time to keep the grass healthy.

Along with the grass, several undesirables are probably growing in your lawn. The best prevention for a weedy lawn is to provide such great growing conditions that the turf crowds out the weeds. If the weeds are sparse, use that early spring energy to hand pull some of those perennial weeds. There are chemicals that can be used if you have more weeds than energy. If you choose to use herbicides, be sure to apply them when they will have maximum impact on the weed population. Follow label directions closely for information on time of application and safety precautions.

Apply pre-emergent herbicides beginning in March to control crabgrass. Crabgrass generally emerges about the time of dogwood bloom, and the pre-emergent herbicides used to control it will not affect crabgrass if it is applied to crabgrass that is already up and growing.

Spraying for dandelions is most effective in fall, but spring spraying of a broadleaf weed killer will control many of them. Be sure to spray when the weeds are actively growing rather than during drought conditions. When spraying any herbicide, use a different sprayer from the one that you use to apply insecticides or fungicides. Mark it “HERBICIDE” so it will not inadvertently be used for other purposes, which may result in herbicide residues damaging valuable plants.

If you mow your own lawn you might want to tune up your mower before you need to use it. If you are planning to ask a local shop to do this for you now is the time to get on their schedule so you are not waiting in line while the grass is growing up to your knees.

March is still a little early for insect control, so after taking care of the few necessary lawn chores for early spring, you can relax and save your energy for summer mowing.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Spring Lawn Care

25 February 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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After visiting the Norfolk Botanical Garden two weeks ago I was thinking how nice it must be to have mild enough temperatures to grow camellias without fear of frost damage or a late snow like we had last week. Camellias are among the finest shrubs for southeastern Virginia where mild winter temperatures prevail. In February you can find many of them in full bloom in Norfolk.

A camellia.

The common Japanese camellia, Camellia japonica, is the most widely planted species. Over 2000 varieties are available that have originated as a result of sports, seedlings, and hybrids. The plants are moderately hardy (hardy in Zones 7 to 9) and may be seriously damaged when the temperature drops lower than 10 degrees above zero. Some hardy varieties, such as ‘Lady Clare’ (dark pink) and ‘White Empress’ (white), are available that may be grown in the cooler central and western parts of the state.

The camellia is an evergreen shrub that may grow to a height of 25 feet. The lustrous, dark-green, leathery leaves are 4 inches long, making the camellia a fine landscape plant even when not in bloom.

The flowers, which range in color from white to pink and red, are from 3 to 5 inches in diameter. They are borne on different varieties from September until April. In cool localities, the selection should be confined to varieties that bloom from September to November and in March and April. The flowers may be single, semi-double, or double.

Camellia sasanqua is considered less dependable than the Camellia japonica in the cooler sections of Virginia (also hardy in Zones 7 to 9). This evergreen shrub is more loose and open than the common camellia. It has leaves about 2 inches long, and plants grow to a height of 20 feet. Sasanqua camellias bloom only from late October through December. The flowers are mostly white and single and are 2 to 3 inches in diameter.

In our Zone 7 areas it is important to choose a protected site such as against a wall or in a protected yard. Also be sure to select cultivars based on cold hardiness if you want them to survive. Camellias are among the best shrubs for planting in partially shaded locations, especially under tall pines. Select a well-drained, sandy loam soil, with a slightly acid pH of 5.5 to 6.0. Space plants at least 6 feet apart to allow the shrubs to develop their natural form.

Soil moisture should be conserved by using a mulch of peat moss, pine needles, or bark or wood chips. Apply additional water during periods of dry weather to promote vigorous growth.

Light applications of a 10-10-10 fertilizer may be used to maintain dark-green, attractive foliage. Do not use more than one cupful per plant in early spring when growth starts.

Camellias grow very slowly. They require very little pruning except for the removal of damaged branches and long shoots that detract from the attractive form of the shrubs. The pruning should be done in early spring after the coldest winter weather is past and the blooming season is completed.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Home Water Quality

18 February 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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In Virginia, we rely on reservoir systems, wells, and other sources for our freshwater. In recent years, our previously plentiful clean water supplies have been threatened not only by overuse, but also by contamination. Pollutants are carried down with water soaking through the soil to the water table. Runoff (water that does not soak into the ground) flows over the surface, often taking soil and polluting chemicals with it into lakes and streams.

Home lawns and landscapes may contribute to this water pollution when homeowners apply pesticides and fertilizers carelessly. By using pesticides and fertilizers properly and only when necessary and following recommended landscape practices, you can do your part to protect our lakes, streams, and drinking water for the future.

Whats in YOUR Water?

Water is one of the four basic essentials for survival:  Food, Water, Shelter and Space.   Our national food supply is tested and scrutinized by the federal government.  But who tests our water?  If you have a well, spring or cistern for your water source, no one does.  Is that bad?  Not necessarily.  Each new well has to be tested and pass as safe, before an Occupancy Permit can be issued.

Virginia Cooperative Extension along with the Biological Systems Engineering Department at Virginia Tech are working together to provide low cost water analysis to educate those who are interested about their own water system.    The goal of the Virginia Household Water Quality Program is to improve the water quality of Virginians with private water supplies, such as wells, springs and cisterns. These Drinking Water Clinics are being held in counties across the state to give people with private water systems access to affordable water testing, to help with interpreting their water test results and information about possible treatment options.

How does it work?

Participants attend a short, evening Kickoff Meeting, where they receive information about how to collect water samples and a sampling kit.  At this meeting, participants will be notified of a date, time, and location where they will drop off their water samples.  At this collection point, the samples will be iced in coolers and taken to the Biological Systems Engineering Water Quality Lab at Virginia Tech in Blacksburg for analysis.  Once the analysis is complete, an Interpretation Meeting is held to distribute the results to each participant.  At this meeting, water test results are explained, and information provided about possible treatment options participants may consider.

All participant information is kept strictly confidential.

What does the water test include?

How much does it cost?

$46  This payment covers the cost of one sampling kit.  The analysis provided would normally cost more than $200 at a commercial water testing laboratory

There are three separate opportunities to participate in this area, dates and times are listed below.  To register for any of these please call your local Extension office for more information, the phone numbers are listed below.

Schedule for Albemarle Private Supply Drinking Water Clinic:

Schedule for Fluvanna Private Supply Drinking Water Clinic:

Schedule for Greene Private Supply Drinking Water Clinic:

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Scale Insects

11 February 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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In the winter insects are not as commonly seen as they are in the warmer months. One group of insects that gets some recognition at this time of year is the scale insects. These insects do not hide in leaf litter or under the soil so much as some insects are prone to do. Rather they stay pretty much right where they were in the summer although they are less active. They can be revealed by lack of foliage for now but often we find them when plants are doing poorly and we are curious to find out why.

A photo of photo of wax scale insects.

Scale insects are a peculiar group and look quite different from the typical insects we encounter day to day. Small, immobile, with no visible legs or antennae, they resemble individual fish scales pressed tightly against the plant on which they are feeding. There are over l50 different kinds of scales in Virginia. Many are common and serious pests of trees, shrubs, and indoor plants.

Scale insects feed on plant sap. They have long, threadlike mouthparts (stylets) six to eight times longer than the insect itself. Feeding by scales slowly reduces plant vigor. Heavily infested plants grow poorly and may suffer dieback of twigs and branches. Occasionally, an infested host will be so weakened that it dies.

Adult scales are protected from insecticides by waxy coverings. Control measures, therefore, must be aimed at the unprotected immature stage (crawlers) or the overwintering stage. Dormant or horticultural oils are effective on the overwintering stage of most species. During the summer, the most effective control requires accurate identification of the pest species so that hatching dates of crawlers can be determined. Once the pest is identified and proper timing known, any one of several common insecticides can be used. Consult your local Extension Agent for current insecticide recommendations.

Scale insects can be roughly divided into two groups: armored scales and soft scales. Armored scales are so named because they secrete a protective cover over their bodies. Most species overwinter as eggs beneath the female cover. In spring, eggs hatch into tiny mobile crawlers which migrate to new feeding sites. After a few days, crawlers settle, insert their mouthparts, and begin feeding. Soon they secrete a protective cover and lose their legs. Large populations can build up unnoticed before plants begin to show visible symptoms. Our most common armored scale pests include the euonymus scale (Homoptera: Diaspididae, Unaspis euonymi (Comstock)).

Female euonymus scales are pear-shaped and blackish-brown. Males are elongate and white. This is a common and serious pest of evergreen euonymus, often causing defoliation and dieback. Pachysandra and bittersweet are also suitable hosts. There are two generations per year. Crawlers are active May 5-June l0 and August l-25. When required, four treatments are recommended: May l0 and 20, and August 5 and l5.

In general, soft scales are larger and more convex than armored scales. Many resemble miniature tortoise shells. Soft Scales usually cover themselves with wax, but they lack the detachable protective cover for which armored scales are named. Most soft scales overwinter as immature, fertilized females. In spring they resume feeding, mature, and lay eggs. These hatch into tiny crawlers. After locating suitable feeding sites, crawlers settle and begin feeding. Some species lose their legs once they are settled, but others retain them and are able to crawl short distances to find suitable overwintering sites in the fall. Except for soft scales which infest indoor plants, most have only a single generation per year at our latitude.

Our most common soft scale pests include the cottony camellia scale (Homoptera: Coccidae, Pulvinaria floccifera (Westwood)). One generation is produced each year and they overwinter as nymphs on twigs mostly. The mature female is a tan, slightly convex, 3mm long oval. She lays her eggs in a white fluted sac on the underside of a leaf and then dies and falls to the ground. Each egg sac (5-10mm long) contains up to 1000 eggs and begins hatching in early June. Crawlers settle on leaves soon after and suck sap, causing off-color, light green foliage damage. Host plants include camellia, holly, yew, rhododendron, Japanese maple, hydrangea, English ivy, mulberry, and euonymus. Treatments, if needed, are recommended in mid June while the crawlers are still active. Low toxicity pesticides such as horticultural oil and insecticidal soap can be effective for most scale insect pests.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Feed the Birds

26 January 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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Feeding birds can be as simple as putting out a pile of seed on a level surface. However there are ways to landscape to attract birds by providing food plants as well. The attractiveness of a feeding area is greatly enhanced by a landscape rich in trees and shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen. Bird feeders placed in areas with large lawns and few trees and shrubs attract few birds. For a different group of birds and a greater variety consider managing open areas as meadows rather than as lawns and providing sources of water and food. A rich growth of grasses and flowering plants provides cover for nesting in the spring and summer and natural sources of seeds during the winter.

A photo of a bird eating from a branch.

Food Plants

Many of the plants naturally found in our landscapes provide valuable food for our native birds year round. Trees such as oaks, maples, beeches, cedar, and hemlock are important sources of mast and other forms of seeds. Small trees such as dogwood, serviceberry, and crab apple provide fruit, and shrubs and vines such as honeysuckle, wild grape, viburnums, hollies, pyracantha, and Virginia creeper provide food and often double as cover in the form of thickets. Many plants normally considered weeds such as pokeberry and mullein provide copious amounts of seed. Planting ornamentals such as sunflower, cosmos, zinnias, etc. will provide a variety of food sources as well.

Feeding Wild Birds

Still in the winter it is good and fun to put up feeders. For some, the decision to feed wild birds is not a casual one. A dedicated bird feeder can buy hundreds of pounds of feed each winter and usually owns at least one bird book and binoculars to identify and study the birds. Feeders need to be monitored, food often needs to be replenished, and over the months and years it amounts to a substantial investment of time and money. Such a commitment carries with it the expectation of attracting an interesting variety of birds. A little study to see what birds eat and plant and feed accordingly can go a long way toward meeting this expectation.

Selecting Bird Feed

There are many kinds of feeds available to attract birds. The particular type of mix you put out influences the number and variety of birds that will use feeding places. In the same way the plants you provide will also attract certain species of birds. Sunflower seeds attract most seed-eating birds. The most attractive sunflower seed is the black, oil-type. You can buy mixes or if you have the inclination you can purchase various types of seeds separately, possibly in bulk from seed or animal feed dealers, and make your own. This way the amounts of the best foods can be varied to attract the birds you want to see.

Presentation of Bird Foods

Having attractive bird feeds on hand is of course most important, but placement of those feeds is important too. Plants have this figured out but we humans sometimes need some help. Just as birds vary in size, shape, color, song, and preferred foods, so do birds differ in feeding behavior. Some feed almost exclusively in trees, others nearly always on the ground, and others are opportunists, feeding wherever they can find acceptable food. Using a variety of feeders will cater to a greater variety of birds.

Most common birds will visit platform feeders. They are simple to build, or you can buy hopper-style feeders that can be suspended by a wire or placed on a pole. Juncos, white-throated sparrows, and towhees prefer to feed on the ground. These species will feed on seed kicked off platform feeders by other birds or on feed placed on the ground for them.

Hanging, tube-type feeders attract goldfinches, chickadees, and a variety of other species. Tube feeders permit goldfinches to avoid competition with blue jays and grackles which can take over platform feeders. Tube feeders will also attract pine siskins and red polls when they are in the area.

In general, ground feeders prefer white millet, whereas birds attracted to tube feeders prefer oil-type sunflower. Therefore, white millet and mixes rich in millet should not be used in tubes or other elevated feeders with small perching surfaces. Suet attached to tree trunks in wire baskets is attractive to woodpeckers and, unfortunately, squirrels so be sure to keep them out of reach as best you can. In addition to food, birds readily use water placed near feeders.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Conserving Energy with Landscaping

21 January 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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If you have been feeling the winter cold this winter inside as well as out you might be thinking about ways to keep the expense of heating your home under control. Well-placed plantings can significantly alter the microclimate around a home, resulting in a more comfortable environment and significant savings in heating and cooling costs over time.

A drawing of a windbreak.

Winter winds increase the rate of air exchange between the interior and exterior of a house, lowering the interior temperature and thereby increasing the heating demand. In a windy site, a windbreak planting (also called a shelterbelt) can account for up to a 50-percent wind reduction and up to a 25-percent reduction in heating fuel consumption. A windbreak is a single or multiple rows of trees or shrubs in a linear configuration.

The goal of a windbreak is to reduce wind speed. Living windbreaks will reduce wind speeds for a distance 30 times the height of the windbreak. However, the maximum zone of wind reductions occurs at 5 to 7 times the height of the windbreak. A wind barrier that permits 50 to 60 percent wind penetration (as in the case of evergreen trees) is more effective than a solid barrier (such as a fence) because it provides a larger area of protection on the leeward side. Evergreen trees (conifers or broadleaf evergreens) are very effective in reducing wind speed. Shrubs next to a house can also reduce wind speed. Dense evergreen shrubs planted about 5 feet from a house will create an area of dead-air space. This dead-air space decreases heat loss from the house walls.

For maximum effectiveness, windbreaks should be oriented perpendicular to the direction of prevailing winter winds. In Virginia this is usually the northwest side of the area to be protected. The windbreak should be longer than the area to be protected. Wherever space permits, an extension on the east side will help, too. Generally, savings from windbreaks increase as the protected perimeter of a house increases; however, even a few well-placed trees make a difference.

Choose a relatively fast-growing, dense conifer or broadleaf evergreen species with stiff branches that will mature at a height about 1.5 times the height of the house. The species should retain branches low to the ground at maturity.

Most pines lose their lower branches with age, thus, they will serve as an effective windbreak for about 20 years. For a long-term windbreak, select species that keep their lower branches such as spruces, firs, arborvitae, and eastern red cedar. In the event your windbreak trees lose their lower branches, you can plant a row of dense evergreen shrubs at the base of the trees.

Norway, white, and Colorado blue spruce are among the best windbreak trees; blue spruce usually provides the most protection, but is slower-growing than the others. Consult your local Extension agent or garden center personnel to determine which conifers and broadleaf evergreens are suited to your area.

In regard to the number of rows of trees, the effectiveness of a windbreak generally increases with each added row, up to five rows. With dense trees such as spruce, two rows are usually the most cost-effective. The distance between rows depends on the mature height of the tree species. More northerly tree rows will cast shade onto trees of adjacent row(s) to the south. Since most conifers only tolerate a small amount of shade, your rows should be far enough apart to avoid the shading phenomenon.

In regards to the spacing between trees, it will, in part, depend on the mature width of the tree species. Trees can be planted at a distance less than their mature width to decrease the time to form a solid barrier. Spacing also depends on how quickly you desire the plants to grow together. Deciding how close to place plants is a compromise between planting plants at a close spacing (having plants grow together quickly) versus the cost of buying more plants which will be required for close spacing. Conversely, a wider spacing will take longer to fill in, but you will be buying fewer plants and spending less money.

Soil preparation prior to planting should include testing the soil and applying nutrients and lime as recommended. Tilling will be necessary for compacted soils. Early spring is a good time to plant windbreak trees, as it allows plants to grow roots into the surrounding soil before the first winter.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Water-Wise Landscaping

14 January 2009

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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Total rainfall in 2008 was slightly below what we might call a normal year and while it may not become a serious issue it is always good to be looking for ways to manage your landscape with less water. Minimizing the need for watering in your landscape requires careful observation, planning, and common sense.

A photo of a precipitation map, courtesy of the National Climatic Data Center (NCDC).

The first step in any successful landscape is a good plan. Observe your site and take notes on the current use of different areas or their desired use. Indicate high-use areas, desirable views, environmental concerns (such as wind direction, slopes, dense shade), and traffic flow through the area. Sketch the property, including any permanent structures, trees, and shrubs that you plan to leave, grass areas, driveways, and sidewalks. Based on your notes, develop a plan that meets your needs for use, appearance, and budget.

Consider maintenance and water requirements in making your decisions. For example, maintaining a high-quality lawn area for entertaining will require frequent fertilizing and mowing, as well as some water use. A more maintenance-free choice for get-togethers is a deck or patio, but use wood or concrete in moderation. Leave plenty of vegetative surfaces for rain to reach the soil and soak in; otherwise, runoff and erosion problems are created.

Good soil is the basis for healthy plants and optimum use of water. The key to good soil is the addition of organic matter, such as compost. Ideally, you should incorporate approximately 2 to 3 inches of compost, shredded leaves, or other fine organic material to the soil annually.

In locations with established trees and shrubs, it is difficult to incorporate organic matter, but applying and maintaining a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch (coarse leaves, shredded bark, pine needles, or wood chips) will gradually improve the soil as the humic acid formed by the decomposing material leaches into the ground.

Decide on the trees, shrubs, and ground covers for your water-wise landscape based on their natural ability to grow well in your area. Select plants that do well with little or no addition of water such as the tulip poplar. Look around and see what native plants are growing successfully nearby. Limit plants with high water demands to small areas that can be watered efficiently. Grouping plants by water requirements is one way to guard against over watering some plants and under watering others.

In general, ground covers require less water than turfgrass, so replacing some of your lawn with a ground cover will conserve water. If you have large deciduous trees in your yard and want to reduce work and water, allow leaves to accumulate as they would in nature. Plant a few understory shrubs (such as azaleas and rhododendrons) and a few understory trees (such as dogwood and redbud).

Organic mulches help retain moisture so there is less need to water. They also recycle plant materials that might otherwise end up in the landfill. In addition, mulches control annual weeds that compete with desired plants for water. Organic mulches improve soil structure as they decompose and they moderate the soil temperature, two factors that also help plants use water efficiently.

Mowing at the proper height (do not remove more than one third of the grass height at one time) allows the grass to develop deeper roots that are more efficient in using soil moisture, and reduces annual weeds. Fertilizing at the proper time encourages healthier turf that needs less watering.

Leaving trees and shrubs in their natural forms and planting them in their natural settings reduces environmental stress, allows them to better tolerate pests, and, therefore, lessens their need for water.

While soils vary greatly in their ability to hold water, your garden and lawn should receive enough water to wet the soil to the bottom of the root zone each time you water generally one inch per week. Check this by digging a hole 5 to 6 inches deep in the watered area the day after watering to see if it reached the bottom. This will allow you to adjust weekly watering to your soil needs.

Avoid watering by hand as it often wastes water as there is excess runoff, and water does not penetrate beyond the top one inch of soil. This irrigation practice harms plants by forcing root growth too close to the surface. If you must water by hand, place a five-gallon bucket with a few holes in the bottom next to the plant and fill it with water. When it is has drained, move it to the next plant and refill.

Properly used sprinkler systems can deliver a large quantity of water in a short time. They have the disadvantage, however, of excessive evaporation, both during watering and from the plant and soil surface. Early morning watering minimizes water loss. However, sprinkler systems that deliver the water from overhead are the most effective means of watering turfgrass. Be sure to position sprinklers to shower areas of vegetation, not driveways, streets, or patios.

Trickle or drip irrigation systems or soaker hoses are very efficient, slowly applying water to vegetable and ornamental gardens. Soil moisture can be maintained at a level most suitable to plant uptake. If properly installed and maintained little water is lost to evaporation or runoff and water use can be reduced by up to 50 percent. For many situations, the expense of installing a good-trickle irrigation system will be compensated by reduced water usage, less replacement of plant materials, and less work.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Trees & Power Lines

31 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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Trees are valuable assets in commercial, private, and public landscapes. Trees add aesthetic beauty, modify and enhance the environment, serve architectural and engineering functions, and increase property and community economic values. These same trees that enhance landscapes, however, are a major challenge for utility companies. Most people have grown accustomed to reliable, uninterrupted electric, telephone and cable service in their homes and offices. Unfortunately, trees are one of the major causes of power outages in areas of overhead utility lines due to direct tree contact with lines, or to trees or tree limbs falling on the lines.

Trees at UVA.

The conflict between trees and utility lines is one we can see every day. Many homeowners have experienced either the loss of a tree or a significant portion of a tree due to the need to keep the limbs from damaging power lines.

While it is difficult to watch the symmetry of a beautiful old tree destroyed by a chain saw you also do not want to interrupt your power supply. For some homeowners, older trees may have sentimental value. Either they were planted by a relative long ago, or planted in memory of someone, or are simply where their children played happily during an earlier time.

It is not uncommon for large species of trees to be inappropriately planted near utility lines. These trees were probably pretty small when they were planted, and perhaps it was never imagined that these little trees would eventually grow and spread to interfere with power lines. Unfortunately, the only options for these trees are either repeated pruning that may leave them disfigured or complete removal of the tree.

The good news is that you do not need to remain completely treeless near utility lines. There are a number of tree species that remain small enough so they do not pose a threat, even when they are mature.

Whether you are planning to replace an existing tree or starting from scratch, the following list of tree species will give you some options (there are more!) to choose from at your local nursery or garden center when you are looking for a small tree for a restricted space.

If you would like to learn more about trees and utility lines I encourage you to visit the Virginia Department of Forestry web site http://www.dof.virginia.gov/urban/index-mtrp.shtml.

Virginia Cooperative Extension will be offering Master Gardener, Master Naturalist, and Tree Steward Volunteer training in early 2009. Please contact your local Extension office for more information.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.

Recycling Christmas Trees

29 December 2008

Virginia Cooperative Extension, Charlottesville/Albemarle County Office
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
phone: 434.872.4580   fax: 434.872.4578

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If you purchased a living tree to decorate your home for the holidays you probably have some place in mind to plant it. Living trees are usually purchased as “balled and burlapped” indicating that roots are left intact and bundled in burlap or other cloth-type material. Following use as Christmas trees, they are planted into the landscape and can be a rewarding way to recycle your tree.

Christmas tree chipping operation.

Unfortunately, trees replanted after holiday use often do not survive or grow well. Most problems can be traced to one of three major factors. First, a tree species is selected that is not adapted to the environment it will be planted. Second, too large a tree is purchased which then suffers a great degree of transplant shock. Third, prior to replanting, trees become too dry due to inadequate moisture around the roots.

Trees that do well in central Virginia are white pine, Scotch pine, Virginia pine, and Norway spruce. Trees to be replanted should not be larger than five to six feet in height to provide for a sufficient root ball and to facilitate handling.

Before planting, the tree can be conditioned by placing it outside in a moderately cool area for a week or so. Since the root balls are often heavy and cumbersome, it is important that they are not mistreated or dropped. Balled and burlapped trees should not be carried by their stems, because the weight of the root ball can exert pressure on the roots and break them. It is best to pick the tree up by the ball itself or to roll the ball along the ground. If the ground is frozen or if the tree cannot be planted immediately, it should be placed in a sheltered area and the root ball heavily mulched.

To plant, an area four to five times the size of the root ball should be tilled to a depth of 6 inches. A planting hole the same diameter and slightly shallower than the root ball is recommended. Natural burlap can be left around the roots if it is too difficult to remove, but treated burlap or nylon should be removed. After planting, two to three inches of mulch over the disturbed area is beneficial. The tree should be watered after planting, but fertilizer application is best done in the spring after the tree has started to grow.

The above procedures are considered the minimum required to establish a living Christmas tree into the landscape. Other cultural practices are necessary if the planted tree is to thrive in its new environment. These practices include soil management (mulching, irrigation, fertilization, etc.), insect and disease identification, evaluation and control, and periodic shaping to maintain the “Christmas tree” look. A significant amount of dedication is required by the homeowner if a living Christmas tree is to be established and grown. However, individuals who are successful can point with pride at their efforts, which will always remind them of a past holiday season.

For those who chose to purchase cut trees, the family tree after Christmas represents a source of organic waste. Most consumers simply put the tree out with the rest of the household garbage to be carted off to a landfill. Depending upon your situation, however, there may be other alternatives to disposing of your tree. The tree could be placed in the backyard, adorned with bits of bread and suet, and used as a bird feeder. In the spring, the tree could be chipped for mulch or burned for fuel. Farmers with ponds have found that a couple of Christmas trees, properly weighted down, provide good habitat for fish. Some communities even provide special chipper services for Christmas trees, with the chips either sold or used for landscaping purposes in city flowerbeds, parks, etc.

In Albemarle County a Christmas Tree Recycling Program will be available from December 26 to January 16. The Christmas Tree Recycling Program collects discarded Christmas trees which are chipped into mulch and then offered to the public at no cost. This program has been in operation since 1988 and recycles over 3000 trees each year; which in turn yields over 144 cubic yards of mulch. Not only does this recycling program provide citizens a place to dispose of a potentially large and cumbersome item, it also reduces the impact on our landfill.

By combining forces with the Charlottesville Curb Side Pick-Up Program, the two programs collected over 5600 trees last year, yielding approximately 268 cubic yards of mulch. According to the City Public Works Department, their curbside pick up will be the week of January 12th, 2009. Trees must be at the curbside by 7am. Shortly after the City curbside pick up, the County and City Parks & Recreation crews will team up to chip the estimated 2600 trees at Darden Towe Park.

As a reminder, this program is for Christmas trees only, please no yard waste. Both the County & City programs require that all decorations, stands and nails be removed from the Christmas trees.

Free mulch will be available to citizen by February 2, 2009, at Darden Towe Park.

The County will operate seven sites daily, 7am till dark. The sites are as follows:

• Chris Greene Lake in Earlysville
• Crozet Park
• Darden Towe Park
• Greenwood Community Center
• *Rivanna Solid Waste Authority Recycling Center on McIntire Road (*note: Sunday hours are 12noon 5pm)
• Scottsville Community Center
• Walnut Creek Park

* The RSWARC on McIntire Rd. may be congested, please consider Darden Towe Park as an alternate location that has easy access and is suited better for large loads and contract haulers.

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For more information about this and other landscape topics contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office. The local Virginia Cooperative Extension office numbers are Albemarle 872-4580, Fluvanna 591-1950, Greene 985-5236, Louisa 540-967-3422, and Nelson 263-4035.